Hailes Castle: East Lothian- Historic Scotland

Update 26 August 2012

I managed to persuade a friend to drive to Hailes Castle on a bright sunny afternoon over the (English Bank Holiday) weekend.  The castle never fails to be an enjoyable location and I managed to clamber down to the River Tyne, with some care, and inspected a pit prison among the ruins.  There are very discreet information boards in sheltered locations around the site, and there were quite a few tourists enjoying this beautifully kept location near East Linton.  This can be approached from either Haddington or East Linton. 

View of Hailes Castle, East Lothian

from the banks of the River Tyne

near the confluence with a burn

A great soundscape location

Prof Whitestick indicating the pit prison at Hailes Castle

East Lothian, Scotland

26 August 2012

I will be staying in London over the Easter Holidays as my hip operation is scheduled soon.  I had been looking forward to visiting the Edinburgh area so instead I have dug out some notes of more attractions in East Lothian.  Coincidentally an article of mine has appeared in the Spring 2012 edition of ‘Historic Scotland’ magazine.  (http://members.historic-scotland.gov.uk/netcommunity/page.aspx?pid=319)

The magazine is very useful as it gives an idea of trips one can do. Several years ago there was a theme linking Historic Scotland properties to short boat or ferry trips and I can remember going with friends to Loch Leven Castle and Threave Castle.  There are quite a few properties with a pleasant boat trip and traffic free grounds.  Some examples are: Inchcolm Abbey on Inchcolm Island in River Forth, Inchmahome Priory on an island in the Lake of Menteith.  Further details of Historic Scotland and facilities can be obtained via http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/

Hailes Castle is only about a mile and a half off the A1 near East Linton, in East Lothian and is not far from Edinburgh.  It is accessible by car and an obliging driver.  There is also another road from Haddington which takes in Traprain Law, a geological feature, a laccolith, where some Neolithic finds as well as more recent artifacts have been found.  These can be viewed in the Museum of Scotland in Chambers St in Edinburgh. (http://profwhitestick.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/national-museum-of-scotland.html)The local council has an attractive guide to this feature.  I can just about discern Traprain Law in the landscape with the Bass Rock and North Berwick Law.

However, the final approach is via a single track road, with passing places few and far between!  In the wet summer of 2011 we drove there but there was a sense of dread on the part of my friend who no doubt prayed that no vehicle suddenly appeared in the opposite direction as he drove down the narrow stretch to the castle.    

The castle is in an isolated location.  There are a few houses nearby and limited space for parking.  However, I have been visiting Hailes Castle for many years now, and have never encountered any problem regarding access or parking.

Once there and safely parked, Hailes Castle delights at many levels.  First, the castle can be enjoyed at any reasonable time and can form part of a theme of trips to other properties of Hepburn, Bothwell and of course Mary Queen of Scots.  The area occupied by the ruins is not vast and daunting, but easily explored at leisure, although the sometimes uneven terrain does require a certain measure of alertness! 

 Enjoying the sun at Hailes Castle

© Professor Whitestick

Second, the castle’s isolated location has meant that the site is never crowded, so once again allowing one to discover the ruins and grounds at one’s own pace.  The castle appears to be popular with some European tourists and I have heard quite a few Italian, French and German speaking visitors from time to time.  This has a further advantage in that one is able to listen to and for the sounds that are a part of the castle’s setting.  And it is the setting – rising, in isolation, on the banks of the River Tyne - which for me is the castle’s chief attraction and that draws me to visit it again and again over the years. There is some charm in castle ruins and Scotland’s history can tell us that it was not always the English who tore down the battlements.

On entering the grounds one passes the small ‘bridge’ over a rushing stream near the entrance, down the pathway leading to underground chambers which were the baking house and cellars; or down a narrow flight of steps, through an arch to see and hear the river flowing and gurgling down below.  Occasionally, there will be someone fishing, but always you will hear the sounds of birds – and the water, and nothing else. 

Looking down on the River Tyne at Hailes Castle

© Professor Whitestick

Across, on the opposite side lies an impressive expanse of farmland which reminds me of some landscapes in the Dutch style.

View from across Hailes Castle

© Professor Whitestick

The A1 and East Coast railway line are not far away but I have never sensed them at the castle.  My cane, though useful in negotiating steps, is not much use as a support and I would advise a stout stick. 

Other Historic Scotland properties include Dirleton and Tantallon Castles.  Preston Mill (NTS) was described in the post on East Lothian walks. (http://profwhitestick.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/east-lothian-walks-seton-collegiate.html)  

Haddington is the county town and is rich in history and has an attractive river walk - a Scottish version of San Antonio, TX ?   The town has an historic Scottish Kirk, the Lamp of Lothian and the River Tyne meanders its way through the town with many bridges crossing the river. 

NB The River Tyne is not to be confused with a river of the same name in England.

Hailes Castle has a connection through Lord Hailes, who styled his house near Edinburgh as Newhailes House.  I wrote about my visit to Newhailes House and have decided to add two photographs of the house.  The link is: http://profwhitestick.blogspot.com/2011/07/visit-to-newhailes-by-edinburgh.html

Edinburgh Castle – Honours of Scotland, Mons Meg, Historic Scotland

Growing up in Edinburgh the Castle ( http://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/ ) features from very early on in school, in addition to being taken to the castle on many occasions.  The Scottish National War Memorial (http://www.snwm.org/website/frames.html) is situated within the castle and there are books with the names of all those who had been killed in the wars laid out.  I can remember going with a friend to the Memorial to look up his mother’s brothers’ (uncles he never knew) names in the war memorial, as his mother couldn’t bear to do it herself.  My family lost no one in either WW I or WW II, so I had no personal interest in visiting the Memorial, though my father would go as he knew some sailors who had been killed on HMS Hood. 

At school, we all learned stories of the battles for control of Edinburgh Castle.  Going to school in the centre of the city, one was aware of the Castle and of course the 1 o’clock gun, which gave a time check in the days when most schoolboy wind up watches lost five minutes or so every day. 

I approached the Castle through the temporary stands for the tattoo and a Bryan Ferry concert.  On reaching the drawbridge, I was approached by Security and asked if I need any assistance for my visit and if I was unaccompanied.  I was then taken to the ticket office and arrangements were made for me. I’ve been a member of Historic Scotland for years in its various forms going back to the 1960s, when a season ticket cost in the region of 10s or so!  I was given an audio tour which was preset, though it turned out I didn’t need to use it.  I had an idea what I wanted to visit and I was then taken back to the Esplanade and a big surprise. 

I hadn’t realised that some years ago a tunnel had been bored through the Castle Rock and that one could in fact drive from the Esplanade to Crown Square at the top of the Castle Rock.  This was a very pleasant surprise and as I was driven through the rock, it felt strangely as if I was driving myself through one of the tunnels around the Monte Carlo area pretending to be Roger Moore in The Saint! 

The courtesy car climbed up and I could make out the lights in the tunnel and indeed the light at the end of the tunnel and we stopped outside Crown Square.  I was met by one of the staff and passed into the tower where the Honours of Scotland are kept.  It was quite a busy day for tourists.  The sun was out, and there were several coach loads of overseas tourists in the castle.  Coming at the end of my Scottish trip, I felt I had done more than my fair share of climbing up spiral staircases and getting down them, so it was a good idea to take a lift up to the Crown Room. 

The Crown of Scotland is very old and the regalia (Honours of Scotland) are the oldest complete set in Europe, though there are older crowns in Vienna and Budapest.  The Crown Jewels in England had to be re-fashioned after they went ‘missing’.  Before the display of the Honours of Scotland, there is a touch replica of the crown, Sword of State, and sceptre.  This was put together with the Royal Blind School and the ‘touch’ gives an idea of the Crown of Scotland and its shape, which is quite different from the crown in the Tower of London.  The heraldic crown in Scotland is also quite different. 

The crown, sword and sceptre are kept in a sealed display case and it was a fleeting flash when I could make out the shimmering gold filigree on its own.  The bonnet and the case couldn’t be seen and I felt as if I could reach out and grab the gold crown.  I couldn’t make out the bonnet which is a red/maroon colour and couldn’t identify any of the jewels, but I will never forget the instant I could make out the framework of the crown itself.  I could make out the sword and the sceptre and the Stone of Destiny, which I had first seen many years ago in Westminster Abbey.  There’s a lot of history about the Stone of Destiny and a lot of myth and a lot of conspiracy theories dating back to some student pranks when it went missing.

In the same room, there is a separate case showing Cardinal Henry, brother of Bonnie Prince Charlie and decorations with some jewels left to Scotland by a daughter of Queen Victoria. 

I was then asked what other items I wanted to see. I opted for the Great Hall and was taken there.  This is another spectacular ceiling similar to the one in Parliament House.  This is designed to look like an upturned boat and I could make out the ‘ribs’ and ‘planks’ of the boat.  I was told that the hammer beam was used as a basis for the reconstruction of the Great Hall in Stirling Castle, which I had previously visited.  The Great Hall was the scene of the infamous murder of the Douglas heirs by William Crichton during the reign of James II, who had a very hot temper and was allegedly responsible for the defenestration of another Douglas at Stirling and who was himself killed by an artillery accident. 

The Hall has a large selection of armoury in a changing exhibition from the royal armouries and I could make out pike staffs, spears, swords and some of the weapons on display.  The guide in the hall had some facsimiles to touch and explained some of the history of the hall and its use in today’s Scotland.  The army still has a token presence here and the Great Hall is used on limited occasions for state visits, Scottish government functions and royal family events.  I was then taken to Saint Margaret’s chapel, which is the oldest part  of the Edinburgh Castle complex and built by Queen Margaret, wife of King Malcolm Canmore.  Next to the chapel (which can be hired out) is Mons Meg, an impressive piece of artillery bought by James II.  Many tourists think this is used for the 1 o’clock gun.  This is an impressive piece of defence equipment and the history of it was explained by my guide, who arranged for me to be taken back to the Esplanade in the courtesy car. 

This was a wonderful trip and I would like to thank Historic Scotland for having these facilities available so that a blind person on their own can experience a lot of what the Castle has to offer.   ( http://members.historic-scotland.gov.uk/Netcommunity/)

Within the Castle, there is much more to see and if there is anything specific you only have to ask.  There are regimental museums, royal apartments, exhibitions, the one o’clock gun, pet cemetery (guard dogs).  On a clear day with blue skies I could make out the hills of Fife and other parts of the Edinburgh skyline.

Date of visit: 8 September, 2011

Stirling: day trip by train from Alloa

Stirling is a pleasant town to visit and can be accessed easily by train.  I wanted to use the relatively newly reopened section of railway from Alloa which is in Clackmannanshire. 

At Aloa Station

© Professor Whitestick

 

This section of the railway has been reopened with an hourly service to Stirling and on to Glasgow Queen Street.  The journey passes through the foothills of the Ochil Hills and the Wallace Monument could be made out at Bridge of Allan as the line joins the main Stirling – Perth line and crosses the River Forth into Stirling Station.  Stirling is the tidal limit of the River Forth and was the historic bridge crossing point. 

The station has several island platforms connected by bridge, though there is also lift access from the platform to the bridge.  There are ticket controlled gates and though tempted did not use my London Freedom Pass!  There is a very friendly information office in Stirling station and staff assembled a good selection of timetables for me and answered any questions I had. 

I couldn’t make out the castle, though the old town is a short walk from a tactile crossing outside the station.  Stirling still has cobbled streets and on climbing you pass by a Mercat Cross with the unicorn on a column and a circular monument.  The unicorn is known as a ‘puggy’ and it was a tradition in Stirling for people to gather during certain festivities and get rather drunk.  My mother used to use the expression ‘as fu’ as a puggy’  This was a more polite description of someone who had far too much to drink and I had always assumed that a puggy was a dog until someone read out the notice at the Mercat Cross.  Further up, on the right is Argyle Lodge, which is closed.  I reached the castle esplanade and car park and it was remarked that there were coaches from as far as the Czech Republic and one could hear many European languages spoken.

The access to the castle is relatively free of the tourist tack shops which can spoil a visit in the Royal Mile in Edinburgh.  Stirling gives a better idea of what life was really like in a medieval Scottish town without resorting to ghost stories, storytelling, excessive bagpipe music and £35 kilts on offer.  There is a bus shuttle from the town centre to the castle, but we didn’t take this.   It seemed that very few people actually walked up, having obviously come by coach, car or bus.

Stirling Castle resembles Edinburgh Castle, and there is often some confusion in identifying the two from photographs, bearing in mind that both castles were in continuous military use – in Stirling’s case until the mid-60s.  The ‘crag and tail’ geology of both ‘Castle Rocks’ is the same, the tail being the glacial debris in the direction of the ice.  Historically, whoever controlled Stirling Castle controlled Scotland on account of the mountains, hills and river systems.  Many battles were fought here including Stirling Bridge and Bannockburn with such figures as William Wallace, King Robert the Bruce and several King Edwards of England. 

Now much of the modern period military vandalism of Stirling has been discarded and the castle property has been refitted to its 16^th century glory during the reigns of King James IV and King James V (father of Mary, Queen of Scots).  It was opened as a Royal Palace by The Queen in July 2011.  The Great Hall looks stunning, especially in sunshine and against a blue sky.  The refurbishment has not been without controversy and has been compared with a theme park by some critics. 

I found all the staff very approachable, especially asking about James II’s killing of the Douglas family.  This is a defenestration mystery. There is an exhibition of the Stirling Heads which have been restored.  These are beautiful wooden carvings, though they can’t be touched.

Replicas of the 'Stirling Heads'

© Professor Whitestick

Tip: It’s worthwhile getting an Historic Scotland pass as an accompanying carer goes free.  The audio guide is just about accessible and the staff gave instructions on the settings, though there is a frequent problem of finding the number of the given exhibit if you wander off the prescribed route.  It is possible to tag on to a tour, though I would recommend that anyone not dressed as a tourist can be approached, especially if wearing a Mary Queen of Scots or King James outfit!  Historic Scotland staff are all well-trained.   

To cap off the visit, we enjoyed a very pleasant fish tea at La Ciociara in the town centre.  There is a large covered shopping mall called the Thistles if you are in need of retail therapy.  If you need a nice coffee, I would advise you to get one before you get to the station! 

Having been to Stirling before, I couldn’t make out the Great Hall from the station, as the light had become poor and the sky was by now overcast – though I know it’s there!  On previous visits I have been able to make out the Ochil Hills and the foothills of the Highlands, but it was a mixture of a not so good eyes day and changing light. 

Stirling bus and train stations both have good links to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Perth, Inverness and London.  It is still an important railway junction and quite busy, with the Alloa-Stirling service well used by commuters from all over.  Return from Alloa to Stirling with a Railcard is £2.10. 

Alloa station is located in a pedestrian area with many tactile crossings to and from Alloa centre and a large supermarket with café/restaurants.  Reminder: the train service is hourly and Alloa is the end station.  Buying tickets is via a machine only, though there is a conductor on the train.